
The Victor, by
Karl Schenkel, Berlin, Germany
For a hundred and fifty years after the
Reformation the practice of travel with a Christian purpose went into
steep decline among both Protestants and many Roman Catholics. It is
tempting to attribute this decline to Protestant preaching. But, to
do so would be to overlook the fact that the decline in major pilgrimages,
not local shrines, occurred all over Western Europe. A simpler explanation
for the general loss of enthusiasm for Christian travel is to be found
in the unsettled social conditions following the Reformation.
A series of peasant revolts in German speaking lands
were followed by wars of religion which embraced the whole of Western
Europe. Some areas, for example, lost up to two thirds of their population
to war and the plagues which followed in the wake of marauding armies.
Although the sack of Magdeburg, where only 5,000 out of a population
in excess of 30,000 survived, was the most publicized example of barbarism
the stench of war left few areas untouched. After the Peace of Westfalia
in 1648 few areas experienced real order. Bands of unemployed soldiers
wandered the countryside robbing and pillaging at will. Travel of any
sort, except in large well armed convoys, was highly dangerous.

The Returning Warrior, by Robert Drake,
Rudesheim, Germany
By the beginning of the eighteenth century a semblance
or order began to return. But, until the 1770’s unnecessary travel remained
the preserve of the brave few. An exception to this observation is the
growth of the "Grand Tour" which became an obsession with English aristocrats
and minor genry. By the mid-century no one who aspired to public office
or high social standing could afford to ignore the Grand Tour as a means
to improving their social status and education.
At first such travelers went in disguise through
France and Germany to their ultimate destination Italy where they had
to avoid capture by the Inquisition. But, by mid-century English travelers
were accepted even in Italy where the Inquisition turned a blind eye
to their presence perhaps in the realization that some would convert
to Roman Catholicism as a result of their enchantment with Italian art
and culture.

The Arc de Triumph, Paris, France
Later in the century and throughout the nineteenth
century other nationalities joined the English in their wanderings around
Europe. French writers like Voltaire, Rousseau and Diderot, Germans
like Goethe, Herder, and Heine, all extolled the virtues of travel as
a means of education and enlightenment.
Early in the nineteenth century travel took on a
new significance. Following the publication of James Macpherson’s The
Odes of Ossian, 1760-1763, a wave of historical nostalgia that glorified
war and the sacrifice of warriors swept Europe that reached hysterical
proportions early in the nineteenth century. Thus ruins and ancient
monuments became the pivotal focus for growing nationalist movements
which developed in the wake of Napoleon’s invasions and numerous art
works depicted people in Greek or Roman garb greeting soliders or going
off to war.
Now instead of remembering their Christian heritage,
Europeans and many North Americans looked to an artificially recreated
pagan past for inspiration. Ancient mythologies, rites and beliefs now
became a popular substitute for Biblical history and faith. [Cf. Howard
Gaskill, ed., The Poems of Ossian: and related works, Edinburgh,
Edinburgh University Press, 1996; and Anthony D. Smith The Ethnic
Origins of Nations, Oxford, Blackwell, 1986].